BMW E28 Subframe Bushings Removal and Installation

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Monday, Feb 8 2010 5:19:51 PM
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BMW E28 Subframe Bushings Removal and Installation in 1 hour!

For BMW E28 series

Summary: This repair writeup outlines the "do it yourself" approach to removing the subframe bushings and replacing them. Typically a special BMW tool is required, and removal of the pins (long bolts running from under the rear seat through the bottom of the car through the center of the subframe bushings) is also required. Removal of these pins can be difficult, and is usually aided by soaking the bolts (at the top, from under the rear seat) and at the bottom with PB Blaster or WD-40 a week before attempt at removal. This walkthrough does NOT require the removal of these pins, and I would like to thank the countless indivuals whose information and postings in various BMW Internet forums helped me with the installation of new subframe bushings.

I did not invent this method, but in all my attempts to find a walkthrough, I never found one that was clearly illustrated with pictures, so here's my attempt to contribute something I felt was lacking in the BMW online community. This was my first time replacing subframe bushings. It was surprisingly easy - I was expecting a nightmare after all the posts I'd read describing how hard it was. I was dreading it for months, but the rear end of my car would literally sway to the right with each shift and acceleration, and I could hear the rear right corner of the subframe banging when I'd go over dips (yes, slowly) or bumps, etc.

Tips: This task will go much smoother and faster for you if you get all the tools and parts ready before you start. You're installation will be better if you do. Give yourself plenty of time to work, so you don't feel rushed. I recommend doing your pitman arms ("dog bones") at the same time.

FILLING BUSHINGS WITH POLYURETHANE
I replaced my bushings with stock BMW bushings that I filled with Dextron Flexane 80 Liquid Polyurethane, but that is because I am preparing for a turbo application and wanted stiffer bushings. Here is my writeup on filling them. If you'd like to read more about the benefits, side effects and other opinions about poly-filled bushings and diff mounts, I suggest searching online BMW forums. Here is a thread that was quite popular that may shed some light on the debate.

VERDICT
The replacement of the subframe bushings tightened up my car's rear end immediately. I took the car for a spin after replacement and I couldn't get the grin off my face. No more wiggling back there, the only steering the car were the FRONT WHEELS, not the rear wheels. The car felt like it should, and I regret not doing this a YEAR AND A HALF AGO when I bought the car (the bushings needed replacement then).

general info

Tools Required:		Optional Tools Recommended:
1/2 drive 18" breaker bar or longer Cheater bar (steel tube to extend length of breaker bar) Vise Grips 1/2 drive ratchet 22mm socket Long handle Regular screwdriver (flathead) 13mm socket Hammer Sawzall Sawzall fast metal cutting blades, 6 inch, 2 quantity		1/2 drive torque wrench Propane torch (to heat the nut if you can't break it loose, I didn't end up using it at all, but some people do) PB Blaster (again, to help loosen nuts, I didn't even use it) Ear protection (Sawzall cutting metal 6 inches from your face is loud) 1/2 drive extension bar Heavy duty high-lift floor jack 6 ton extra high-lift jack stands (24 inches holding height) I recommend Sears Craftsman Professional 6 ton Jack Stands, Sears part no #50150 Two 2x4 wood blocks.
Time Required:		Parts Required:
1-2 hours alone. I did it in 45 minutes my first time, while taking pics and including replacing the dog bones too!		2 BMW subframe bushings, BMW part #33 31 1 130 488

Note: The 22mm wrench in the picture is not required for this job. I was doing the dog bones at the same time.		A large floor jack will be helpful.

gallery (click any pic to enlarge)

1) Obviously step one is to get the car up on jack stands or a lift. I used 6 ton extra tall jack stands, I was able to get the car WAY up. Take your 22 mm socket, 1/2 drive breaker bar, and a cheater bar if you have one, and get the subframe nut off. You're going to remove that entire brace - there's a 22mm nut on the bushing, and two 13mm bolts at the other end.	2) This bolt (from step 1) was incredibly stubborn. I had to use a cheater bar on top of the breaker bar to break it loose. As soon as it broke lose, the regular 1/2 ratchet made easy work the rest of the way. When you get that off, remove the two 13mm bolts at the other end of the brace, and set it aside with the nut and two bolts.	3) You've now exposed the bushing. With the sawzall, we're going to cut the bushing in four places, indicated by the yellow lines. The goal is to collapse the bushing. The two middle cuts will allow removal of the center of the bushing. The two perimeter cuts are through the casing of the bushing, NOT through the subframe. You have about 3 mm of metal to cut through before you get to the subframe itself. WARNING!!! Do NOT cut through the subframe!! Just the bushing's casing.
4) With the car jacked up way high, you should have enough room for the sawzall to clear. Do NOT place your hand under the between the floor and the sawzall. When the sawzall catches, it will pinch your hand to the floor. Instead, let the floor do the work, I just held the sawzall body against the floor, to hold it steady, and pressed the button.	5) Here you can see the blade of the sawzall at the top of the bushing where it cut through. I have commpletely cut through the bushing's metal casing here, and stopped at the edge before the subframe. When the blade is all the way through, it will probably get pinched and bind, causing the body of the sawzall to bounce up and down. Just be prepared. Make sure you cut the bushing's casing all the way from top to bottom.	6) Here's how the cuts look. Compare to step 3. With the center cuts, the middle of the bushing will come right out with a pair of Vise Grips...
7) Grab onto that sucker - and pull.	8) Easy. With the center gone, and the casing split into two sections, all we need to do is break them loose and remove them. No need to remove the subframe bolt.	9) Take a long handled screwdriver, and while sitting in the wheel well, place the tip of the flathead on the casing of the bushing, and drive it out with a hammer.
10) A nice hit was all it took, and this half of the bushing casing dropped 3/4 inch. You can see how the casing is coming out in two pieces.	11) Grab the first half and pull it out with the Vise Grips.	12) Repeat for the other half of the bushing casing. Be careful not to hit your car's paint with the screwdriver or hammer, you idiot.
13) Here's the three pieces of the bushing.	14) Compare the old bushing to the new one that I filled with polyurethane.	15) Another view.
16) Nothing magic here. First clean out the inside of the subframe with your gloved finger, to remove any junk and dirt so the new bushing can slide in. Then, with your liquid dishsoap, GENEROUSLY grease up the inside of the subframe, and the exterior of the new bushing. It has some grooves that mate with guides in the subframe, so line those up, and get it started. Once it's started, use your floor jack to press it into place.	17) You'll only be able to press it in so far until the bolt protrudes and you hear a crunching sound on the wood block as the bolt begins to pierce the wood.	18) Now here's the part some pros will definintely cringe at - to get around the bolt, I just put a block on its side and next to the bolt, and gently eased the bushing the rest of the way in with the floor jack. You could alternatively drill a 1 inch hole in the block and try to line it up with the bolt, so you could keep the block horizontal, but this was easier.
19) With the new bushing all the way in place, just replace the brace and you're done.

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